India has a rich and diverse culture. Its diversity has given birth to countless beautiful art forms that have somehow thrived through years of cultural invasion and the British rule. Time and again, fashion has successfully brought together unique cloth styles and numerous different art forms. As a fashion enthusiast it is imperative to be aware of the art forms that have graced Indian garments for centuries. One such intricate and exquisite art techniques is the lesser known Rogan Art. The art came into spotlight a few years ago when Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi gifted an exquisite handcrafted Rogan painting to American President Barack Obama on his visit to the United States.

The word Rogan has Persian origins and means ‘oil based’. The Rogan Art is an ancient skill with origins in Persia, came down to Kutch around 400 years ago. Traditionally, the craft was pursued to beautify bridal clothing of the regional tribes, beautiful borders and floral patterns on Ghagras, odhni and bed spreads were painstakingly painted. However, it being a dying craft with more people showing interest in it in the form of wall pieces, ‘Rogan kaam’ has gained popularity as Rogan art in today’s time. The art also attracted the likes of imminent stars including Amitabh Bachchan, Asha Parekh, Waheeda Rehman, Sanjay Leela Bhansali and Shabana Azmi.

Rogan Paste

The only family in Nirona, Bhuj that is known to practice this technique is Abdul Gafoor Khatri’s family. The art has been in the family for 8 generations. 

To create an artistic pattern in Rogan, takes a lot of dedication and undivided attention. A thick spool of paint is twisted around a metal pin. The gummy paint then has to be tested on heel of palm and made more malleable. The tip of the pin is brought a few inches above the cloth. As it hovers, an elastic strand of color streams on to the surface forming an intricate pattern. The design formed looks exactly like needlework.  Folding the cloth forms a mirror -image of the pattern and an exquisite piece of Rogan art is born.  The process of painting takes quite a lot of time depending on the intricacy of the design and most importantly the type and size of cloth it is being done upon. While Geometric patterns are perennial favorites, motifs such as ‘The Tree of Life’ and Moghul paisleys are mostly found on bedspreads, Kurtis , curtains, wall hangings, paintings, purses , dress material and saris. Abdul Gafoor Khatri also won a National award for his work on a sari.

This beautiful art form that reflects years of folk culture of the Kutch region needs to be preserved. As a step towards this, the Khatri family has been volunteering to teach the art to craftsmen and women willing to learn. The biggest hurdle the art faces is lack of awareness about it. Since the finished product resembles a printed or embroidered piece of fabric, it has to be explained that the fabric is hand painted. With incomprehensible technology defining the pace and the taste of today’s world, tribal crafts are finding it difficult to maintain their identity. The Rogan painting is a perfect example of a spellbinding yet fast disappearing art, with just one family upholding the rich tradition.

You can visit this amazing humble village Nirona on your next tour to Kutch. Make an appointment in advance or you can just walk in like us. They welcome all.

Abdulgafur D. Khatri (Gafoorbhai): 9825753955

Arab H. Khatri +919879425812

 Sumar D. Khatri +919998788855

Email: traditionalroganart@gmail.com

Web: www.tradiionalroganart.com